Jan/Feb 2009: The New Food Revolution

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Illustration by Kim Sokol

Illustration by Kim Sokol

By Penelope Hutchison
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2010

We once called ourselves Radical Obnoxious Fucking Feminists. When we meet again 20 years later, I discover that both f-words make us wince. What happened?

The day after the reunion, the subject line of Kelly’s email reads: “Did you hear?” On August 4, 2009, the same night as four university girlfriends and I had gathered for a 20-year reunion, a man walked into a gym in Bridgeville, Pennsylvania, and opened fire. In response to what his online diary described as years of rejection by women and his inability to get a girlfriend, George Sodini shot three women, injured nine others – all unknown to him – and then killed himself.

The coincidence is surreal. My undergraduate girlfriends and I had planned the reunion as a memorial of sorts to mark the 20th anniversary of the Montreal Massacre. On December 6, 1989, 14 female engineering students were shot to death by a man who blamed women – feminists in particular – for ruining his life. The event shocked and scared us because we saw just how far the backlash against women could go.

I swiftly type my reply to Kelly’s email:

“The shooting and killing of those women on the same night as our reunion is unbelievable. Clearly misogyny is still alive and kicking. Getting together with you all made me realize that perhaps we still can make change. Instead of enlisting as junior members of the raging grannies, maybe we can morph into some fabulous forty-something gang? Something to ponder.”

Not a single one of my former fellow activists responds to my email. My disappointment turns to depression. How is it that as 40-something professionals, we don’t feel we have the same power and voice and ability to make change that we once believed feminism offered us? What has happened to us? To the world around us?

In the wake of this latest killing, we won’t be gathering in the Queen’s University Women’s Centre to plan a candlelight vigil. Julie won’t be making a sign that reads “Misogyny kills.” Nothing but a brief flurry of emails.

It is not that my girlfriends don’t want to speak out about violence against women anymore. It is, I tell myself, that in our supposedly post-feminist age, such outbursts from savvy professional women seem uncouth and unreasonable. Now that women are encouraged to pursue an education, a career, and be sexually independent, many see feminism as a thing of the past. To ease our way in the world, women like me have given up any public claims to feminism, or have at least tucked it away in an unobtrusive corner of our beings so as not to offend.

We have become lapsed feminists.

The rise of ROFF

Twenty years ago, my girlfriends and I, undergraduates all, formed ROFF – Radical Obnoxious Fucking Feminists. We gained notoriety in the media for our political protests. A Globe and Mail reporter described us in November 1989 as a “shadowy group” that shook “the serenity of Queen’s, a campus renowned as a hotbed of social rest.”

On Valentine’s Day we planted stop signs around campus to mark the places where, it was rumoured, women had been sexually assaulted. During Orientation Week, we whitewashed the “Golden Tit,” the speed bump engineering students decorate each year with a pink nipple, and spray painted “ROFF” over top in purple letters. We organized a 24-hour sit-in in the university principal’s office with two dozen other women. The sit-in was a response to the administration’s failure to discipline a group of first-year male students living in residence who had plastered their dorm windows with slogans like “No Means Kick Her In The Teeth,” “No Means Tie Me Up” and “No Means Harder.” The signs were the men’s response to a “No Means No” anti-date rape awareness campaign on campus.

My ROFF girlfriends and I had come to Queen’s in the late 1980s believing the battle of the sexes was over. Instead, we faced signs on student ghetto houses with messages like “Bring Your Virgins Here,” “Show Your Tits” and “Why Beer is Better than Women: Beer Doesn’t Run to Tell the Police When you Rape It.” We met one another in classes on feminist jurisprudence, women in politics, literature and philosophy, and made the Queen’s Women’s Centre our clubhouse.

We were empowered by the possibil­ities feminism offered to challenge society’s power structures. We devoured the texts of writers like bell hooks, Catharine MacKinnon and Carol Gilligan, and the lectures of our young, untenured female professors who sparked discussion about the exploitation of women in a male-dominated culture.

The gender politics at Queen’s and other campuses across Canada certainly reinforced this perspective. We read about panty raids at Wilfred Laurier University where male students splashed ketchup on women’s underwear and hung them out for display. Blindfolded and bikini-clad mannequins were paraded through Carleton University’s campus. We saw the world anew, and it seemed a threatening place, full of hatred towards all things feminine. In feminism we saw hope; a way to make the world a safer place for women.

ROFF reunited

The release of the film Polytechnique, a dramatization of the Montreal Massacre, in early 2009 inspired me to track down my ROFF girlfriends and host a reunion. I remember how devastated we were by the massacre, how it felt like the culmination of everything my ROFF girlfriends and I were fighting against at Queen’s. After reading a review of the film in the Globe and Mail, I decided to re-establish contact with my girlfriends and engage in some collective soul-searching about our university activism. I was curious to hear about the paths their lives and their feminism had taken.

As Kim, Kelly and I gather around Kim’s living room table, noshing on low-fat, low-carb crudités, white wine and Diet Coke, Jen and Julie join in the reunion by teleconference from British Columbia and Nova Scotia respectively. Once we are past the niceties, the conversation turns to our feminist activism as undergraduates.

We laud ourselves for our political protests and remind ourselves how the media attention we got for the sit-in sparked a national debate about sexism on campuses. Toronto Star columnist Michele Landsberg wrote at the time that “women from all over Ontario have written me letters of blazing indignation about the sexist hazing they receive at universities in this province. Some of the language they endured – language on banners and T-shirts – would make you faint with shock.” We talk about how our actions helped raise the issue of systemic discrimination against women in universities, and how that discussion spilled out into the workplace and onto the streets until it became a matter of public debate.

Despite the pride evident in my ROFF girlfriends’ voices, not a single one of us identifies professionally as a feminist today. “I don’t say I’m a feminist, but talk more about social justice issues. They are much broader than gender politics and that language,” says Jen, director of a network of HIV/AIDS organizations in B.C. After a brief stint articling at a corporate law firm in Vancouver left her miserable, she took on advocacy work in the predominantly gay HIV/AIDS community in the mid 1990s. There she used her legal expertise to help those with HIV/AIDS access Canada Pension Plan and B.C. benefits.

For Jen and many other women today, the discourse of gender politics is a thing of the past, its legitimacy giving way to other issues – social justice, the environment, antiglobalization, etc. Julie, now general manager of a non-profit arts organization in Nova Scotia, was ROFF’s leading agitator. She has continued to be a vocal proponent for change, working for a London, Ontario, homeless coalition and eventually running for the NDP in the riding of London North Centre in the 1990s. Now living in a hamlet near the Bay of Fundy, she describes her current political activism as more locally focused. Managing a theatre company, running artist retreats and art camps for kids where discussion centres on issues like the environment and mental health, she says she’s “gone from making bigger changes and contributions to smaller local things. I feel like I have more personal impact this way.”

As we aged, we began to choose more manageable goals, but the playing field also shifted. At the same time as we were launching our careers, falling in and out of relationships, acquiring mortgages and having children, society was rebranding feminism as irrelevant. Feminist scholar Angela McRobbie says this is not a straightforward right-wing backlash against feminism. Instead, feminism has been incorporated into this new “post-feminist” landscape through media depictions of independent, sex­ually liberated women like Bridget Jones and Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw. These images of strong, educated and sexually independent women (who also happen to be white and middle-class) give the message that equality between the sexes has been achieved, and suddenly feminism is passé.

It is not that the feminist demands for equality have been met, however. It is that in this new social and cultural landscape, the language of feminism has been delegitimized. What happened for women like my ROFF girlfriends and me is that in one way or another, we have all had to make the bargain so many ­middle-class women come to make to find success in our personal and professional lives. The bargain is this: women can be powerful as long as they give up their claims to feminism and the notion that women are unequal and marginalized in society.

‘Post-feminist’ malaise

Kim, a single mother with a high-status job with the government of Alberta, outwardly personifies the changes feminism has undergone in the intervening years. She has transformed from a curvaceous, bohemian-dressed, unruly-haired brunette to a thin, blonde Gabrielle Reece look-alike in tailored suit and heels.

Bunking at her house for the reunion, I see how she organizes her life to meet all the demands on her time. Up at 5:30 a.m. to work out on the elliptical machine in her basement, she’s showered, dressed and feeding her boys by 7:00 a.m., shuttling them off to school to clock in at the office by 8 a.m. A full day at work is followed by a busy evening of attending to her kids’ after-school activities, meals, homework and bedtime. Her attention then turns back to the briefcase of work she’s brought home before her head hits the pillow at 11 p.m.

It is a rigid schedule but one that is reinforced through women’s magazines and TV talk shows that promote the message that working women’s demanding timetables show how competent we are because we can, and do, “do it all.”

Kelly and I have similar schedules to Kim’s. We’re both at the gym four or five times a week, working out with personal trainers to fit the thin, tailored professional woman mould. Kelly, the mom of twin boys conceived through donor insemination, manages a busy family law practice where as a legal expert to the federal government on assisted reproduction, surrogacy and ovum/sperm donor agreements, her services are in demand.

As a self-employed writer, I have the luxury of working in my home office but my day is still rigidly structured. Bouts of writing interspersed between meetings with clients, meal preparation, car-pooling my son between school and after-school activities, and trying to care long-distance for my aging parents.

By adopting these roles, Kim, Kelly and I have been able to achieve success in the still predominantly male workplace. The price we have paid for such success has been to have to distance ourselves from our earlier feminist identities, or at least from contemporary culture’s view of feminism as a juvenile, extreme dogma typically associated with hatred towards men. It is not that we believe that equality between the sexes has been achieved; it is that living the day-to-day practice of feminism in our professional and personal lives is much harder than we anticipated as young women. Feminism is a long historical movement; as individual women striving to find fulfillment in our personal and professional lives, it is hard to live that struggle on a daily basis in the face of a culture that tells you feminism is a thing of the past.

“In my circle of friends, I wouldn’t say I’m a feminist but wouldn’t say I’m not. I talk about broader social justice issues. Despite feminism’s efforts to be more inclusive of other issues, it’s not,” says Kelly.

As we recount the trajectories of our various career paths, the joys and challenges of raising boys (Kim, Kelly and I all bore sons) and the ups and downs of our sexual relationships with men and women, we recognize the irony of our situation. Feminism has played a significant role in making our professional, ideological and identity choices possible. As a successful lawyer active in Toronto’s gay and lesbian community, Kelly can partially credit the gains made by the feminist movement. Yet, like the rest of my ROFF girlfriends, she has come to distance herself from feminist rhetoric in order to succeed in the legal profession.

While my ROFF girlfriends no longer identify as feminists, they readily acknowledge the ample evidence that exists showing how women have not overcome the problems feminism sought to solve. “I firmly believe that as much as women think they are sexually liberated now and sexual equals to men, it’s crap. At work, if a man sleeps around, he’s unremarked; if a woman does, she’s labelled the office bicycle. That has not changed one iota,” says Kim.

According to Statistics Canada, women are over six times as likely as men to be victims of sexual assault, the majority perpetrated by someone they know. Women working full-time still earn 29 per cent less than men employed full-time; the gap between male and female earnings has not changed significantly in the past decade. Women are still the primary family caregivers, far more likely than men to have to take time from their jobs because of personal or family responsibilities.

Recognizing the imbalances of power women still face, my ROFF girlfriends and I reflect on how important women’s studies courses were for us as young university women, offering us a critical lens and analysis about the place of women in the world. But today, young women are losing those avenues. The recent closure of the women’s studies program at the University of Guelph, the under-resourcing of women’s studies in general within Canada and the complete disappearance of women’s studies as an undergraduate degree in the United Kingdom highlight how the discipline is increasingly seen as a soft subject, lacking academic rigour and based on dated politics.

Not so radical

As the wine bottle empties and our reunion winds to an end, the discussion turns to our love lives: new relationships bubbling up for Kim and Julie, Jen making peace with being newly single, Kelly and I in long-standing relationships. Perhaps we are no different from Carrie Bradshaw: strong, independent, professionally successful, yet still, in the end, looking for life’s fulfillment through our relationships.

It is evident that the politics and passion for change that first brought us together 20 years ago are gone. We once felt so powerful in our efforts to make the world a better place. Now, looking back, I’m disappointed in myself, and to some extent in my ROFF girlfriends, for not holding on to our feminist principles as we aged; for not fighting against the inequality we met in our workplaces and in our personal relationships; for what many might call “selling out.” I don’t think we’ve necessarily sold out; there is just so much working against us in this struggle for broader equality.

As the fall deepened and the 20th anniversary of the Montreal Massacre drew near, I managed to put aside some of my sadness about the reunion and my ROFF girlfriends’ loss of faith in feminism as a tool for change. I know now it wasn’t that we were naive or too radical to realize that the feminist project was some impossible dream. Rather, it was that we weren’t radical enough to stop the backlash that has sidelined feminism as a force for change – that keeping feminism meaningful for younger generations of women has proven a harder task than we ever imagined.

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Photo by Gelek Badheytsang There is perhaps no more politically charged issue today than food - how it is grown, who controls its processing and distribution, and who eats what — or who doesn’t eat at all. In our special issue focusing on food politics, Briarpatch casts a hopeful eye over the multitude of food activism initiatives springing up all around us, reports from the Fifth International Conference of La Via Campesina in Maputo, Mozambique, investigates the claims of the whey protein supplement industry, discusses the dangers of genetically modified food, whips up an activist cookbook of do-it-yourself food activities, and much more.

To subscribe or order a copy of this issue, call 1-866-431-5777 or visit our secure online shop. Read the rest of this entry »

By Dave Oswald Mitchell
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

It may be the politics of food that has the greatest capacity for self-organization - more than resistance to surveillance, resistance to oppression, and struggles for better wages and health care. Nothing connects everything like food.”

Stan Goff, Energy War

From the outbreak of listeriosis in Canada to the eruption of food riots across the global south, from the eating of mud cakes in Haiti to stave off hunger pangs to the growing of Canadian crops to fuel our vehicles, there is perhaps no more politically charged issue today than food - how it is grown, who controls its processing and distribution and who eats what (or who doesn’t eat at all).

Briarpatch last took a sustained look at food politics two years ago in our February 2007 “food and fuel” issue. It’s instructive to consider how much has changed since then. The trends we highlighted in that issue - falling crop yields and falling global grain stocks, inequitable distribution, industrial agriculture’s dangerous reliance on fossil fuels - have now reached a breaking point in many parts of the world. Prices for staples such as rice and wheat skyrocketed early last year, taking a tremendous toll on the millions around the globe who live on less than two dollars a day, while the economic crisis that followed is further swelling the ranks of the underfed. But whereas the outlook of our last food issue was decidedly bleak, the current issue of Briarpatch, though it certainly doesn’t shy away from the enormity of the challenges we face in building an equitable and ecologically sound food system, is far more hopeful.

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By Aric McBay
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

Being an activist has a way of teaching you how to lose gracefully. Or, at least, how to lose. In my activist career I’ve worked in many different campaigns on a diverse array of issues, but virtually every single campaign I’ve been involved in has been a losing battle, with the particular problems we were fighting against becoming measurably worse despite our efforts. There has been one exception: the movement to build local, ecologically sound food systems.

When it comes to food activism, we seem to have reached a tipping point. The “100-mile diet” is now a household phrase. The idea of supporting local family farmers has wide appeal and support even in relatively mainstream demographics. Food and farm groups I’ve worked with have seen an upsurge of support and number of allies, and concrete indicators like the number of new, locally oriented farms are very promising.

Of course, the different issues I’ve worked on aren’t really disparate. They have shared causes, and often have shared solutions. So why is this particular movement now seeing considerable success? And what lessons of this success can be applied to other struggles?

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Photo by Nic Paget-Clarke
Fifth International Conference of La Via Campesina, Maputo, Mozambique

By Luis Hernández Navarro and Annette Aurélie Desmarais
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

They numbered almost 650, from 86 countries and five continents, when they arrived in Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. They were delegates, support teams and special guests of the Fifth International Conference of La Vía Campesina, which took place from October 16 to 23, 2008. To reach Maputo, most of the delegates had made a considerable economic and human effort. Maputo is not a city you get to easily. At a moment when the world economy had yet to come up for air, in which the credit, environmental, food, trade and finance crises were colliding against one another and shaking the international economic architecture, farm leaders from many regions of the planet gathered together to collectively analyze the global food crisis and its relation to the financial crisis, and to show the world why food sovereignty - the democratization of the global food system - is a viable and necessary alternative.

La Vía Campesina is a transnational agrarian movement made up of organizations of peasants, small- and medium-scale farmers, rural women, farm workers and indigenous agrarian communities throughout Asia, the Americas, Europe and Africa. These groups all share an intimate connection to the land and a collective will to work together to build a more humane world.

Since its inception in 1993, La Vía Campesina has become a powerful voice of radical resistance to the globalization of a neo-liberal and corporate model of agriculture. Born from peasants’ tenacious determination to continue being peasants, La Vía Campesina is now a key actor in the archipelago of altermundista (alter-globalization) movements. Resisting the kind of modernization that excludes the majority, La Vía Campesina promotes instead a modernization which embraces everyone.

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Photo by Deb Cripps

By Samantha Magnus
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

Bodybuilders swear by it. But is whey all it’s pumped up to be?

Raindrops slam against the windows of the little shop on Bay Street in Victoria. The glass is littered with white-lettered slogans boasting the lowest supplement prices in town.

Inside I wipe my feet on the face of the store’s muscle-bound mascot, Popeye, who winks up at me from the doormat. The walls are lined with rows of rainbow tubs, all sealed and packed with supplement powders. Browsing through the creatine, amino acid complexes, carbohydrates, and whey protein products means squeezing between towers of the stuff, which come in two, five, and ten-pound denominations.

Chris Kinnear could be Popeye himself, minus the pipe. He owns the Victoria franchise of Popeye’s Supplements. He sports an earring, jeans, and a store-uniform vest exposing his thick, prickly-haired arms.

Kinnear points to photos of trophy-laden athletes and decked out babes on the wall behind the counter and jerseys hanging from the ceiling, tokens from his most celebrated clients. “It’s scientifically impossible to be at your optimum health without supplementation,” Kinnear says. “Optimal health is not that easy; that’s why few people have it.”

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Photo by Robin Waite
Installation artist Andrew Waite’s “Crop” is a handmade, full-scale cornfield entirely made of aluminum foil. “Crop” debuted in Florence, Italy, then was recreated for Nuit Blanche 2007 in Toronto and was later installed at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington and Xpace gallery in Toronto.

By Michael Smith
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

Jeffrey M. Smith is the Executive Director of the Institute for Responsible Technology and is an international bestselling author on the health risks of genetically modified foods.

Briarpatch: In both of your books, Seeds of Deception and Genetic Roulette, you make reference to a 1996 study by Dr. Árpá Pusztai from the Rowett Institute in the United Kingdom. Why is this study so important?

Jeffrey Smith: Well, initially Dr. Pusztai was given a grant by the British government to develop the ideal safety testing protocol that would become the assessment process used by the European Union to approve genetically modified products. He found that the inherent process of genetic engineering can cause significant health damage. It was such incriminating evidence that it could have, by itself, ended the genetic engineering of the food supply - instead it ended his career.

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Photo by Gelek Badheytsang

By Geeta Sehgal, Yolanda Hansen, Jon Steinman, Aruna Handa,  Shayna Stock, Kaitlin Kazmierowski, Adam Perry, Charles Z. Levkoe and Angie Koch
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

#1: Food Not Bombs
By Geeta Sehgal

Food Not Bombs is an anti-poverty and anti-war movement that started in the early 1980s as an offshoot of protests against nuclear weapons. Twenty-five years later, Food Not Bombs groups continue to protest militarism and war while recycling food that would otherwise be wasted.

The origins of Food Not Bombs are somewhat mysterious: some report that a bake sale to benefit the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament led activists to call for spending on food, rather than bombs; other stories mention a mock soup line being used as street theatre when demonstrators asked the First National Bank of Boston to stop investing in a nuclear power station. What is certain is that the first Food Not Bombs servings were held in Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the early 1980s by anti-nuclear protestors and the movement has since spread worldwide.

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By Saima Sidik, Julia Ewaschuk & Andrea Peloso
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

> How to make 5 foods you thought you had to buy
> How to can tomatoes

> How to live without a fridge

How to make 5 foods you thought you had to buy
By Saima Sidik

Homemade tomato sauce simmering on the stove puts me at peace with the world; it’s something about satisfying my need to eat with my own hands. Cooking from scratch is environmentally rewarding too. Whole foods often take less energy to transport than those that are processed, and if you make your food, you can choose where each ingredient comes from and try to buy those that are local and sustainably produced.

In this article, I present instructions for making or growing five familiar foods that people often buy: tortillas, tomato sauce, yogurt, lettuce and sprouts. My hope is that this information will empower readers to take a more active role in the production and preparation of their own food, partially because I believe that it can reduce the environmental impact of our eating habits, and partially because making my own food makes me very happy, and I’d like to share the skill with others.

Yogurt

Yogurt is made when specific bacteria are turned loose on milk and allowed to thicken it. All you need to do is introduce that bacteria under the right conditions. The following recipe is roughly based on Crystal Miller’s recipe from www.allfreecrafts.com.

1.) Heat two litres of whole milk to 180 degrees Fahrenheit (about 82 degrees Celsius). This will kill off all extraneous bacteria that are in the milk. As soon as the milk reaches 180 degrees, take it off the stove.

2.) Lower the temperature of the milk to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (about 37 degrees Celsius) and add half a cup of yogurt that’s already been made. The pre-made yogurt contains the bacteria that will thicken the milk. It’s important to use yogurt that’s as fresh as possible, so buy it on the day that you plan to make your yogurt. Alternatively, some health food stores sell a powder containing the right kind of bacteria, and you can substitute this for yogurt.

3.) Leave the milk/yogurt mixture at 90 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit for eight to twelve hours, or until it has thickened enough for your taste. I’ve found that a good way to maintain this temperature is by putting the yogurt in glass jars and leaving them in a sink full of hot water covered by a cutting board to hold the heat in.

4.) Run the yogurt through a blender to eliminate any chunks.

5.) Add your favorite flavourings. I suggest maple syrup and berries, but apples, honey, granola and jam also work well.

If your yogurt refuses to thicken, which has sometimes happened to me, there are several things that may have gone wrong. Your starter yogurt may be too old, or its bacteria may have been killed somehow, or your milk may have antibiotics in it. Experiment with different brands of milk and yogurt.

Photo by Saima Sidik
Roll a small handful of dough into a plate-sized circle that’s one to three millimetres thick.

Tortillas

This flat bread is useful for wraps, burritos, enchiladas and dipping in curry, and is a reliable way of stretching a meal. Here is a recipe for six tortillas:

1.) Heat 1½ cups of water until it’s as hot as you can stand to touch. Add one teaspoon of salt.

2.) Add all-purpose wheat flour (approximately 1⅓ to 1½ cups) to the water until you have thick, non-sticky dough. Knead the dough for five minutes.

3.) Grease the dough by kneading in a teaspoon of vegetable oil.

4.) Roll a small handful of dough into a plate-sized circle that’s one to three millimeters thick.

5.) Put the tortilla in a medium hot frying pan. Don’t add any oil yet.

6.) When the tortilla has started to become firm and turn white, pull up one corner and put a little oil under it. Spin the tortilla in a circle in the pan to evenly distribute the oil.

7.) Continue to cook, flipping as necessary, until the tortilla has begun to brown on both sides.

Tomato sauce

This recipe makes the whole house smell good. Any kind of tomato will work, but you can experiment to see which variety you prefer.

1.) Dice two or three large tomatoes and blend them.

2.) Mix the blended tomatoes with:

2 tablespoons of olive oil
1 crushed clove of garlic
½ tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley
½ teaspoon dried oregano
2 bay leaves
⅛ teaspoon citric acid powder
(Citric acid powder can be found in the vitamin sections of many health food stores.)

3.) Let the mixture boil briefly, then turn the heat down and let it simmer for half an hour.

4.) Add salt and pepper to taste. If the sauce is too acidic for you, add a little bit of baking soda to neutralize the acid. I recommend adding only a teaspoon of baking soda at a time.

Lettuce

If you have a small family and don’t eat salads for every meal, part of a head of lettuce will inevitably go bad before you finish it. Why not grow your own instead? This allows you to pick only a few leaves at a time, and also gives you an excuse to get outside!

Lettuce comes in many varieties, most of which can tolerate (and often prefer) cool temperatures. You can plant lettuce as soon as the threat of frost has passed and replant throughout the summer. If possible, give the plants shade for a few hours during hot days so as not to overwhelm them with heat. Instead of waiting for the whole head to mature, take what you want when you want it and continue to replenish the stock by occasionally replanting. Most lettuce plants are small, so you don’t need a yard to grow it. A pot on the deck or a window box will do the trick.

Photo by Saima Sidik
Sprouts only take a few days to mature, and they can be grown inside in water.

Sprouts

When the weather gets cold, I find it convenient to substitute sprouts for lettuce. These wee greens only take a few days to mature, and they can be grown inside in water. You can find mixes of sprouting seeds at many hardware stores. (I get mine at Canadian Tire.) These mixes often include plants such as broccoli, clover and alfalfa. The package of seeds that you find will probably have exact instructions on how to grow your sprouts, but it will be something like this:

1.) Put two tablespoons of seeds into a mason jar and cover them with water. Put cheese cloth over the top of the Mason jar and use a rubber band to hold it in place. Let the seeds soak for four hours.

2.) Let the water drain from the Mason jar, through the cheese cloth, by leaving the jar upside down or propped on an angle in the sink.

3.) Rinse the seeds twice a day, morning and evening, until they have germinated and turned into delicious-looking salad and sandwich fixings (about four days).

Satish Kumar, the editor of Resurgence Magazine, says that baking bread is an act of meditation, and I wholeheartedly agree. Making time in my day for the methodical task of cooking is relaxing and makes the hectic parts of my life seem less stressful. I wish everyone who reads this article great satisfaction, both emotionally and metabolically, with their cooking.

Bon appétit!

Saima Sidik lives in Halifax, where she works in a biology lab at the Bedford Institute of Oceanography. Her favourite meal is bean and cheese burritos with a salad on the side.

How to can tomatoes
By Julia Ewaschuk

Eat locally, goes the mantra. Judging from the growing number and popularity of farmers’ markets across the country, Canadians are getting this message, loud and clear. But how do you follow a 100-mile diet when the surrounding terrain is trapped under a sheet of ice for much of the year? Unless your idea of delicious mid-winter fare consists of frozen dirt cakes with snow icing, the answer to the conundrum of eating locally year-round in Canada can be found in, of all places, our grandparents’ kitchens.

My grandmother’s bustling and steamy basement canning kitchen, for instance, produced enough jarred fruits and vegetables to last through the winter. Whenever nature’s abundance mandated, our family would form an assembly line, blanching, peeling, packing and processing tomatoes, peaches, pears, or whatever happened to be in season on our weekend visit. I’ve finally realized the food preserving skills I had learned in my childhood are part of the solution to the ecological extravagance of February’s far-flung South African pears and Chilean apples.

It’s easier and more satisfying than you’d think to fill a shelf with beautiful, home-canned, local produce. At its simplest, canning requires nothing more than a big (20-30 litre) pot, canning jars and lids, and an hour or two of food preserving time. Fancier equipment like canning tongs, jar holders, canning funnels and bubble-freeing devices, are handy, but not essential.

The general principle is simple: get the food sealed tightly into the jar, with no microbes present. Sufficiently acidic foods can be preserved just by heating them to a specific temperature, for a specific length of time, thereby killing the moulds, bacteria and yeasts that might spoil the food and render it unsafe to eat. The only microbe that isn’t destroyed by heat alone is Clostridium botulinum, a dangerous type of bacteria whose heat-resistant spores require an acidic environment, in addition to heat, to be destroyed. Some foods are naturally acidic enough (anything less than pH 4.6); everything else requires either the addition of acid or the higher heat reached through the pressure canning method (not discussed here).

Many resource books and websites are available to guide you through the intricacies of various food preserving methods, and should be consulted to ensure safe canning. But to get you started, here are the details of preparing canned tomatoes, something you probably use quite a lot during the winter, when store-bought tomatoes are not only imported from remote lands, but also pallid and tasteless.

1.) Find delicious, ripe, local tomatoes at the farmers’ market or pick-your-own farm, or better yet, grow your own. You can preserve as few or as many as you’d like. It takes about seven large tomatoes to fill a one-quart jar.

2.) Place as many clean jars as you need upside-down on a clean towel-lined baking sheet. Bake at 200ºF for 15 minutes.

3.) Fill four pots two-thirds full of water to boil: your canning pot, a large pot for blanching tomatoes, a medium pot with water (or tomato juice) for filling airspaces, and a small pot for lids (boil the lids for ten minutes to sterilize them, then set to simmer until required).

4.) Cut the stem and white core out of each tomato.

5.) Blanch the tomatoes by dipping them in the large pot of boiling water for 30 seconds then plunge them into a sink full of cold water. Peels should slip off easily. Cut tomatoes in quarters.

6.) Important: Add two tablespoons of lemon juice to each quart jar; fill with tomatoes to within one centimetre of the rim. The acid from the lemons ensures a low enough pH to kill bacterial spores.

7.) Fill airspaces with boiling water or tomato juice to within 0.5 cm of the rim.

8.) Free any trapped bubbles with the handle of a wooden spoon or chopstick.

9.) Wipe the top of each jar carefully with clean, damp cloth to ensure a good seal. Place sterilized lid on top and screw on a ring, just finger-tight. Do not over-tighten.

10.) Place jars in the canning pot and boil for 40 minutes, keeping water 2.5 cm above the top of the jars.

11.) Cool overnight, ensure each lid is sealed.

12.) Open in February, and enjoy some mid-winter`s local eating!

Consult www.foodsafety.psu.edu/canningguide.html for more information.

Julia Ewaschuk has a Ph.D. in nutrition from the University of Saskatchewan (2004). She lives in New York City with her husband and son.

How to live without a fridge
By Andrea Peloso

I first lived without a fridge as a student in Paris. Because of the abundance of local markets and bakeries, I hardly even noticed its absence. Years later, back in Canada and feeling that life had become too complicated, I thought unplugging my fridge might be a simple way out. Running such a huge machine, larger than a coffin, just for myself and my two-fist-sized stomach suddenly seemed more bizarre than convenient. I have now been living without a fridge for close to two years.

If you want to live without a fridge, all you have to do is unplug. Your fridge can be immediately converted into a storage unit right where it is. The lower portion can create space for your cupboard by holding canned and dried food, herbs, teas and spices. The upper portion makes a practical cupboard or can be filled with snow or ice and used as a cooler. (Unless you are using your fridge as a cooler, always keep it open a crack to prevent smells from forming.) With the hum of the fridge’s motor finally still, you will be amazed at the peace and quiet you bring to your home.

Most foods can last for a considerable time without a fridge. Cups of herbs or greens in water are a cheerful but constant reminder of the passage of time. Root vegetables, onions, peppers, and zucchini stay true. Eggs last for weeks. Somehow I had equated the existence of my fridge with the natural life of my food, but really, the fridge is a steroid - it can keep food fresh for a very long time, but why not just eat the food in a somewhat shorter time? I’m vegetarian, but dairy and meat are both to be treated with care. Use milk and meat the day you buy it and try to keep it cool. Cheese and dairy lasts overnight in a ziplock bag in cool water. In winter, these will be fine either in your garage or mud room, or in coolers that you fill with snow.

One of the biggest drawbacks of not having a fridge can by summed up by my friend Albert’s question: “But what about ice cream?” (Albert, an ecologist, had decided to accompany me on this journey in his own way.) Indeed, what about ice cream or a cold beer? Albert’s solution was to use his non-heated mud room in winter and a very small fridge for the summer. This can also be a great option - either reducing the size of your fridge, or choosing to unplug during certain seasons.

The summer months can be a sweet time to go fridge-free. Local produce is so fresh and plentiful that it will last longer than food shipped from abroad. Eating locally in the age of peak oil is best for farmer, earth, and consumer alike. To keep a year-round supply of local produce, fresh berries, corn and small cucumbers can all be canned for a great winter of local food with no freezing needed.

Of course, in the winter, you can keep anything cool for as long as you want due to our abundant resource of cold air, snow, and ice. Wool blankets can also be used as a cooler. I stored some ginger carrot soup for three days indoors by putting a small pot into a larger soup pot filled with fresh snow and protecting it with a wool blanket. Using ingenuity rather than energy adds a kind of adventure to everyday life that we seldom get to experience anymore. And it gives a more realistic picture of nature - a picture of abundant yet finite and delicate gifts, rather than an infinite source of power for all of our desires.

In the past, leftovers were like guests that had worn out their welcome. Post-fridge, I simply took fresh leftovers to share with my neighbor Bradley and I became a guest myself. I liked sharing new food discoveries, such as organic local apples I brought. Bradley realized that organic apples tasted better than what he normally bought. When I had a bad cold, Bradley heard me coughing through the walls, called and offered to buy some oranges for me. In a compartmentalized condo setting, we forged a true bond.

In giving up my fridge, I have gained a greater sense of connection to the ingenuity of my ancestors. I have a peaceful-sounding home, a new friend next door, a low electricity bill - and a deeper sense of harmony with the changing seasons.

Andrea Peloso teaches women’s studies at George Brown College in Toronto. Her favourite winter recipe is hand-dried crimini mushroom barley miso soup, egg and seaweed.

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Photo by Cathy Holtslander

By Cathy Holtslander, Glen Koroluk and Ian Lordon
Briarpatch Magazine
January/February 2009

The energy crisis - driven by over-consumption and peak oil - has provided an opportunity for powerful global partnerships between petroleum, grain, genetic engineering and automotive corporations. These new food and fuel alliances are deciding the future of the world’s agricultural landscapes. The agrofuels boom will further consolidate their hold over our food and fuel systems and allow them to determine what, how and how much will be grown, resulting in more rural poverty, environmental destruction and hunger.”

­-Dr. Miguel Altieri, University of California, author of Agroecology: The Science of Sustainable Agriculture

In the first half of 2008, Parliament Hill was the scene of a heated battle over the future of agriculture in Canada. The victor’s spoils: Bill C-33, an Act that would amend the Canadian Environmental Protection Act to give the federal government the power to mandate five per cent ethanol content in gasoline and two per cent biodiesel in transportation and home heating fuel. At the Senate Committee hearing on the bill, many civil society organizations argued that in the face of a worldwide food crisis, promoting an agrofuel mandate is both immoral and ineffective as a response to global warming. Nevertheless, the agrofuel lobby won the day, securing a guaranteed market and billions in subsidies, while a mere $50 million in emergency food aid was promised to shore up Canada’s declining international aid contributions.

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